There was no need for stuntmanship in the usual stagecraft expected in their shows, The Haute Couture show was a nice subtle display of continuity as the first collection without Karl Lagerfeld.
For the most part, Virginie Viard sticks to the classic code of monastic austerity that relies on refined, hand-sewn finishes – seam binding, carefully arranged pleats, finely finished hems, scooping neckline forms, but using a cascade of longer leaner drapery.
Her signature is carefully inserted as the collection salutes the golden eras of the Chanel aesthetic, taking her time to introduce coloured tweeds, black cravats, and peeling off the layers of accessory embellishments that have been staples in recent years. It’s a celebration of beauty and femininity staying true to the label’s function and form.
With the ready to wear collections last week, we’re seeing more of her imagination come through with the looks of tweeds for tweens and colour prints on rompers hitting the runway. A complete 360 to the almost conservative approach in her previous show. For Lagerfeld loyalists, it may be confusing, but we are fans of this very interesting fashion story….