Milano Moda Uomo: Mens Fashion Week

Over four days, across 25 runways, Milan exploded into a series of previews and events of prêt-à-porter and accessories for men during Men’s Fashion Week (Milano Moda Uomo).

Prada

It’s an ongoing discussion that manifests on the catwalks – classic couture vs streetwear and the slow merging of the two down the runways as aesthetics, masculinity and eco sustainability are explored.  Tight and plaited knitted vests, jackets, coats and A-line trapeze style trenches oversized and boxy cut into traditional fabrics or sustainable nylon.  Abstract patterns, tight trousers with leggings, leather boots with high wedges, camel coats are some of the ideas that envisions a renewal in the ongoing dialogue.

Fendi

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Modulating coats, jackets and furs there’s a play on volume, cuts and fabric manipulation in patterns.   Denim and suede are disguised as velvet, cashmere inlays substitute furs.  Nylon pieces in the collection change colour when exposed to sunlight adding the flair for the modern that defines today’s gentleman.  Bold hues of yellow strategicially accessorise the look and highlight bolder elements in the silhouette.

Ermenegildo Zegna

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The colour tone keeps to classic earthy tones with conservative adventure into teal and turkish blues and deep burgundy.  It was haute couture that commanded recycled fabrics and reused clothing.   Skin tight neoprene fabric compositions of polyester and spandex were sewn on backdrops of fine wool, leather and cashmere propelling classic signature tailoring into the even more socially conscious 2020s dresser.

Walter Van Berendonck
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Thought not in the official line up, his collection is worth a mention. Renowned for his irreverent approach, this fall / winter season dictates spikes and psychadelic colour schemes.

DSquared2

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Dig out those 90s cowboy boots from the back of the closet because the twins (Dean and Dan Caten) are bringing them back in style with their edgy mix of Canadian iconography, refined Italian tailoring and playful sensuality.   Low-rise double down jeans, inverted sheepskin, cable sweaters, padded vest parkas.  Duffle coats, hoods, shearling cardigans and mohair knitwear are given that signature seamless melding of contrasts when paired with latex trousers and biker pants – I mean really!  Sporty yet glamorous, laidback yet extravagant, masculine and feminine – a distinctive concept of alternative luxury in a continuous game of contrasts between softness and seduction.  We can also confirm the undone fly in several of these looks was deliberate.

Reshake

Reshake

Chinese streetwear meshed with chic silhouettes.  Adding their flaire to western silhouettes it was an elegant follow up to their Buddhist influenced collection last season.  Bold solids on show.

Jie Da
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Burgundy, Royal Blue and Silver are key tones of this Japanese house of fashion this season.   True to form, youthful streetstyle are combined into classic silhouettes.

Gucci

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Endless seventies references disturbed by clashing yet deliberate embroidery, prints and accessories.  There’s purpose, yet hesitation yet rebelliousness – that is the key to these looks and the abstract statements the showing was filled with.   Youths literally wearing the clothese their parents could have owned a generation ago yet put together by instinct.

Salvatore Ferragamo

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They’ve taken the looks of the businessman, biker, pilot, sailor, soldier, surfer and massages new ideas into them.   Reconceptualisation with refined nonchalance and a touch of sensuality.  Long pants become dress shorts, suits evolved into leather and the whirling of tweed overcoats with camouflage and ribbed sweaters. Military-inspired variations with maxi cardigans.  Big buckles and even bigger accessory bags are critical.

Etro

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The rugged country look of knee high boots is softened with long haired wool, proportioned coating plaid ponchos and jackets that envelope the figure.

Emporio Armani

The starting points of the Emporio Armani Men’s FW20-21 fashion show are traditional – established designs are re-imagined from a modern point of view. The details appeal to the fashion sense of those who enjoy sport, without necessarily expressing themselves on the slopes or the athletics field. The colour range includes mineral greys, onyx, snow white and lacquer red.

Iceberg

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Integrating club culture into the Autumn Winter look is the key message. A dualism that becomes a fusion, luxury sportswear merges with military and formal silhouettes emanating stand out looks of topographical colour codes in camouflage, padded vests and belt bags.


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